That’s right – we’ve turned around.
I know, I know. It’s something I’ve never, ever done before. And, to be honest, it feels pretty good.
I got 5 flat tires in one day (always, always, check your new pump to make sure it fits your tubes… but, with a little hacking/breaking, it will work). We patched them, and patched them good. But good damn; I never get frustrated. Oh, I did this time. We needed to make some distance. We needed to make it 1/2 way to Napoli. The sound, the feel of the flat… oh it makes me ill.
So we patch, and we patch, and we patch. Two tubes later, and heads of confusion, we find a lovely church-ruin overlooking the mediterranean sea. A nice fellow tells us to watch for snakes. But of course. The ruin was definitely a ruin, and just recognizable as a church. Lots of blackberries. Pretty slopey. Not so nice. Said fellow comes up and invites us into his house.
Nice guy. Lots of conspiracy. Lots of smarts, too. Two geckos in a tube; bedroom covered in tinfoil (noise reducer?), a s-l-o-w internet connection; obscurity galore; a good night, for sure. In the morning, he realizes that our tire, not our tube, is to blame. Yes, there, a teeny tiny fracture on the tire’s rim. The lovely fellow rides to a shop 10 km away and buys us a new tire! It’s on my bike now – and it’s a bit bigger, so I feel rugged and ready.
So we lost some time – or exchanged it for different experiences. And now, we’ve decided to return north, save Napoli and the rest of the Italian south for another trip. We must go to Greece someday – a south of Italy + Greece > Turkey makes keen sense.
We’re in Minturno now. It’ll take us 5 days or so to get back to Rome. Next up: Leghorn, Pisa, and Florence.